History of Perak.(how Bukit Chandan got its name

History without a pinch of magic,folklore and fable would be dull especially to the young ones.The same goes with this story of ancient Perak.

Now why is the state called Perak?One of the interesting story was before the existence of the Perak Sultanate there was only the Melaka Sultanate.Perak was divided into three districts that is Bruas,Manjung and Janin,better known as Hulu Perak and was under the rule of Tun Saban.Manjung and Bruas was under Melaka.At that time the Penghulu of Manjung was Tok Mahsuka.Somehow the three heads decided to merge and form a State.Their discussions brought them to the conclusion that since it was Tun Perak that made Melaka well known they will name the new State as Perak.

Tok Mahsuka was not satisfied and wanted a ruler of Royal descendants for Perak.

On another story of Hikayat Merang Mahawangsa,Perak has its link to Raja Mahapudi Sat.Apparently he came across a river with a few islands.So he felt that this was an ideal place to build into a state.Therefore he used his bow and arrow.The bow was called 'Indera Sakti' and the arrow made of perak.He shot towards the sky and it landed on one of the island.He called the island Indera Sakti and the State Perak.

Before it all began,Perak was under the rule of Gangga Negara that is now under the district of Dinding,Beruas and Manjung.

The real history of Perak however became clearer and without a doubt after Melaka fell to the Portugis in 1511 and Sultan Mahmud ran away to Kampar,Sumatra and he became the Sultan of Kampar.

Perak which earlier wanted a ruler of pure royalty sent Tun Samban and Nakhoda Kassim to meet Sultan Mahmud.Tun Saban requested Sultan Mahmud to allow one of his sons to become the Sultan of Perak upon which the Sultan agreed.

Here is where magic and reality collides.Sultan Mahmud sent all the royal regalia plus the 'nobat' first to Perak.Three years later Raja Muzaffar sailed to Perak.According to history Raja Muzaffar's ship was stranded upon approaching the estuary.He recited his well known mantra and lo and behold a genie appeared.The genie said 'Tuanku,if you want to rule Perak you have to throw your crown into the sea.' Raja Muzaffar threw and his only important regalia that he had with him was the sword chura si manja kini.

The ship sailed to Tanah Abang and it was here that he was installed as the first Sultan of Perak in 1528 and it was during this time that Islam planted its roots in Perak.

During those days all palaces were no concrete palace and most palaces were built of wood and situated by the river bank.

In 1877,Raja Idris became the Sultan he built one on top of a hill because Sayong was often hit by floods.He named the hill Bukit Chandan.

The story behind this name is about his elephant called kulup chandan.One day the elephant ran away and Raja Idris who was only the Raja Muda at that time followed the elephants trail together with his men.They reached Gunung Bubu.It was here that he met an old bearded man clad in white jubah.The old man approached him and said "You will be the next Sultan and when you become one,do not reside in Sayong but built your palace across the river on a hill and you have to release the elephant 7 days after your installation."

That was how bukit chandan got its name and why present rulers reside here.At that time it was called Istana Negara and proudly this was where the first ruler's conference was held.

Istana Iskandariah was built by the son of Sultan Idris the 1st,Sultan Alang Iskandar.Sadly he did not get to live there because he passed away before it was completed.

The palace that was forgotten.

We often wonder what secrets or stories lies behind old buildings. Especially old palaces that seems enchanting.One such palace is Istana Kenangan in Kuala Kangsar.

I remember  visiting my late grandmother who resided there.That was when I was a teenager so let me take you on a journey back in time

Initially it was called Istana Lembah because it stands beautifully on a valley in Bukit Chandan. It was meant to be a temporary home for my grandparent Sultan Iskandar Shah ibni Almarhum Sultan Idris 1 and  Raja Perempuan Kelsom.They stayed there from 1931 to 1934.Istana Iskandariah was still 'work in progress ' at that time.

It was Tunku Abdul Rahman who changed the name of Istana Lembah to Istana Kenangan during the 60s.Somehow the name deem fit for the family of Sultan Iskandar  For it holds memories to be remembered and cherished by the existing members of the family.

To know more about Istana Kenangan besides what you get from Wikipedia we must first get to know Raja Perempuan Kelsom also. When Sultan Iskandar passed away in 1934,Raja Kelsom moved to her own home which was fondly called Istana Ladang.During those days the abode of prominent royalties are called Istana by the village folks regardless of the size and architecture.They tend to put royalties on a pedestal.

Many may not know of her except for the fact that the secondary school in Kuala Kangsar was named after her.

Bah (grandma)was an avid gardener and she even tried her hands in planting  padi besides growing flowers.She grew the padi at the plot of land near her house hence the name 'Istana Ladang' by the villagers and the Bukit Chandan folks.

Raja Perempuan Kelsom was a versatile lady.She rides horses with the 'orang puteh' and she can blend in with women from the village.An artistic lady, she was a champion in cooking and sewing as well as drawing.She even did the 'tekad' which was uncommon at that time.

As for Istana Kenangan which belongs to the State, it was home for students  during the war in 1941.It was given a facelift by Tunku Abdul Rahman in the 60s who then changed the name.

When Raja Idris became the Sultan of Perak,  my grandmother Raja Kelsom moved to Istana Kenangan while a cozy bungalow was being built at the spot where Istana Ladang was.Raja Kelsom lived in Istana Kenangan with her big family till her last breath.

The architecture of istana kenangan is unique. It is shaped like a 'keris' if seen from the top. Made of wood and tepas ,it does not have nails.The person that built it was a man from Bukit Mertajam called Suffian.There is a small Balai Rong Seri as you go up the stairs. Behind is where the family had their meals and relaxation.There are three huge bedrooms with a picturesque view through the windows.

Bah (grandma) is full of empathy and sympathy towards the village folks of Kampung Changkat. Everyday she prepared meals for the less fortunate and they would flock to the palace.

The palace was lively and sometime they would have movies under the stars for the villagers. It was a treat for the villagers to be able to watch movies in the palace ground.

Raja Kelsom loved people and they love her too.She passed away in 1972 at Istana Kenangan and her daughter Raja Intan Soraya then stayed there for a while.

Siblings of Raja Intan including my mother died young and that was where their bodies were taken for people to pay their last respect.Istana Kenangan had witnessed many episodes of happiness and sadness as well as grieving families.

All good things must come to an end so they said. Istana Kenangan shared the same fate.Raja Intan later moved to the new house at the spot where Istana Ladang was and Istana Kenangan was abandoned when Sultan Idris passed away

Fast forward to the 80s, Istana Kenangan which belongs to the government was turned into a museum.Unfortunately the so called museum is not ready for public viewing.Many visitors are frustrated especially history buff.Now all that remains are memories.

Ends

Iskandar

This is a story about a mother's sacrifice and about perseverance.Regardless of race or background, a mother's love has no boundaries.A mother that did not give up hope on her son who was born with a hearing impaired.

Raja Puan Mahkota,Raja Nazhatul Shima Sultan Idris Shah have six sons and the youngest son Syed Iskandar Syed Omar Al Sagoff brought out the best in her.

KU PUAN DOTTIE 

"When he was a baby he slept through the night and seldom cry.He was a good baby." said Raja Nazhatul Shima or fondly known as KuDottie.

"When he turned two,he never uttered a word and I was worried but still felt that he was fine because each time I sang  songs like 'twinkle little star' with my hand gesture,he laughed.So I assumed he heard me but actually it was my hand gesture that made him laugh."

One day while he was playing with his cousin,I shouted at them for messing up the room.There was no respond from my son,he was unaffected but my nephew cried because of the shout.

That was when KuDottie realized that his son had a hearing problem.

"I took him to a paeditrician in Ipoh and the doctor said that Iskandar was a slow learner.I was not satisfied and wanted a second opinion so I took him to Singapore and the doctor diagnosed my son as profound deaf or hearing impaired . My world collapsed upon learning that Iskandar was born with 'hearing impaired' and I was advised to take him to a speech therapist. I took him to see a speech therapist,Mrs Ragbir in Kuala Lumpur to see if he could utter a sound."

"The therapist used a method that is hard for me to explain and the first word that she taught him was the word 'Ma'. I was so happy to hear him said Ma that i cried tears of joy."

So the next thing KuDottie did was  took him to Hong Kong for another check up.She was dismayed because the doctor gave the same diagnosis.

Then Ragbir the speech therapist suggested to KuDottie about the 'cochlear implant in Sydney,Australia.At that time it was new and not many have heard about this.By then Iskandar was five years old.

A cochlear implant is  a  medical device that replaces the function of the damaged inner ear.It does the work of damaged parts of the inner ear known as cochlea  to provide sound signals to the brain.

We found Proffesor Gibson in Sydney and he did the operation on Iskandar.We went there in 1995 till 1997 and the operation took four hours.

ISKANDAR

"I was shocked when I first heard  sounds after the operation that I cried from fear."said Syed Iskandar Syed Omar, 28.

As for KuDottie, she admitted that upon seeing Iskandar responded with the cry after the operation, she was so happy that no words could described her feelings.She knew than that the operation was successful.Iskandar was the second patient to undergo the operation at that point in time.The first was the son of Farah Khan.

We had to go for speech therapy in Sydney after the operation and we had to learn from Professor Gibson. At the same time Iskandar went to Cranbrook school a normal school for normal children.The beauty about the school is that they never treat him like a handicap.

"Iskandar is strong willed and competitive.He was so good in chess since young and in Tenby at the age of 11 he was the best chess player " said KuDottie.

"My mum and I stayed in Sydney for three years so I could learned how to speak.I never learn sign language but only lip reading.I went for speech therapy under a wonderful teacher,Rosalyn from Canada and became attached to her."said Iskandar

Lip reading is a technique of understanding speech by visually  interpreting the movements of the lips,face and tongue when normal sound is not available. Lip reading is not easy and ostensibly used by those with hearing impaired.

"Naturally English became my first language.I went to a prep  school in Sydney for two years and then continued my studies at Tenby International School in Ipoh."he said

After acquiring his O level at the age of 15,Iskandar went to HELP University for his twinning degree at 16.After two years in HELP,he went to Hawaii Pacific University  to complete his degree.

"I pursued Bachelor of Science in Business Management majoring in finance and in Mathematic. I earned my Honour degree with a GPA of 3.78 at the age of 19.I came home for a while before I decided that a degree is not enough for me and I have to do my Masters.

So I did my Masters at the age of 20 in Australia.At UNSW to be precised which was very tough but I got my masters in Financial Analysis.That was a challenging year for me."

Upon returning to Ipoh, Iskandar who was the first in his family to earned a Masters began teaching.He was a lecturer at Quest International University  for four years.The good looking lecturer had students going gaga over him which is not surprising.

" I taught  Finance and Statistic. I love figures and I memorised formulas.For me education should be free" said the good looking lad."So during my free time I give tuition in mathematics for free.I joined Mercy and helped the flood victims in Pahang during the big flood recently.

Iskandar quit his job in order to help his mother with finance for their family business.Somehow his passion for for teaching won him over so he started teaching again at Sunway College Ipoh.He is currently teaching Finance,the subject that he loves.

"I am thinking of doing a PhD soon.That will take four years."he said adding that his mother is behind his success and he is proud of his mother just as much as his mother is proud of him.

"I wish to share my son's success with others so that those out there with a child that is born with hearing impaired will not give up  and for those young ones to pursue their dream.If Iskandar can do it,I believe they can do it too."said KuDottie.

Ends

Coffee Delight

I was going to write about the craze for coffee art these days but I think I will begin with a write up on local coffee.You know,the old fashion kopi O.

Coffee has been around for ages and it had been the drink of our grandmothers.Somehow the generation X and Y  feels that they are the connoisseur of coffee.A cup of cappuccino or long black coffee may cost you about RM15 in Coffee Beans or Starbucks  but local black 'kopi- o' at a coffee shop down the street will only cost you about RM2.50 per cup.The same kind of coffee whereby it is grounded and sieved but it is cheap because most coffee shop buys coffee from the traders in town at a price of RM14 per kg.

Phang Yoke has been selling local coffee at Yee Hoi coffee manufacturer stall at the Super Kinta building for 30 over years but the 'Seal Brand Coffee' that she sell has been around for 60 years with a factory in Jelapang."It was my grandmother who suggested that I sell coffee to help make ends meet after I got married but till now I am enjoying selling coffee."said the 59 years old lady with a smile.

In a world where drinking gourmet and instant coffee is the trend,the coffee like the one sold by Phang,are near extinction. Still,she does not mind because she humbly said that those imported coffee must surely taste better. Most of her customers are her regulars and they said that her coffee is still the best for them.

"Modern people prefer to  drink coffee at expensive places these days but those who know about coffee will buy from me because my coffee is cheap and I grind the coffee when customers ask for it."said Phang.

 

Her stall and another stall are the only two that are still selling coffee the old fashion way . Coffee lovers should get their coffee fix from local traders and enjoy the taste of capuccino in the comfort of home.

Going to her stall ,we can smell the aroma from afar and it is very tempting. Her coffee beans are all sold  in huge jars and customers would choose. Then she will grind the coffee for them.If you want a taste of capuccino at home,just add some vanilla essence to your sieved coffee and voila,cappuccino for you.

Introducing Gaharu tea.

I have written about the Gaharu tea plantation for NST LET e-mag and also for the Perak Insights magazine.Both contents are not the same but it all come down to the story.A story about the Gaharu tea plantation,Gopeng.

Today I went to Gaharu Tea plantation which is situated at Gopeng as a guest of the CEO Nick Ho.

Nick and me had become good friends ever since I wrote about his family's plantation.Yes I had to impose myself on him for information that are not in the net.He had been very helpful and for that I am grateful.

The event today was in conjuction of the Chinese New Year and there were about 600 guests from all walks of life.

I brought my stepmom and sister along so that they could see the scenic hill with the agarwood trees.200,000 of trees on a 300 acres of land.Amazing sight but like other businesses,nothing comes easy.Same with the Ho family.It took them 20 years to see their investment becoming fruitful.

Now the plantation produces all kinds of products made from the tree.The best product is the tea.I have been drinking the tea since I first knew about Gaharu and I must say that it has helped me with my anxiety and insomnia.

Readers,if you suffer from insomnia,do try this tea.It is soothing and relaxing so it's best  to unwind n sip the tea in the evening.
There are other benefits to our health from this tea but it's for you to try and feel it.

I believed that my stepmom and sister had a fun time at the event.We went up the hills and watched the gaharu trees spreading across the hills and valley.A picturesque sight indeed.
Then we had fun hugging the trees which have drawings of animals on them.They say that hugging the tree will bring us luck!Hugging trees can be therapeutic,that much I am sure.

After the hugging and icture taking session,we relax and had a good conversation with Nick Ho.He gave us a fortune box which contains the tea and coffee products made from the gaharu leaves.A day well spent ,I would say.

What is Inap Desa?

Inap Desa is a concept whereby tourist who wants to experience the feel of a kampung lifestyle can stay with the villagers that are tied with the tourism department of Perak. This concept is attractive for the foreign tourist market.

My friend and I visited the Kampung Beng Inap Desa which is by the beautiful Chenderoh Lake.

Apparently Roslan was one of the six chosen to run an Inap Desa.Those who stayed with him will sleep the way they sleep,mattress on the wooden floor without air conditioning and eat what they eat.Then the tourist will follow him out to fish in the lake and also rubber tapping.Roslan have received many tourist from all over and they love it there.An Indonesian tourist said that this lake is much more beautiful than lake toba."said Roslan.

Kampung Beng is secluded and one can take a boat straight to the place or use the road like we did . Surprisingly he told us that the Petronas commercial by Yasmin Ahmad was filmed at the jetty near his house.Being a Yasmin Ahmad fan we were thrilled and hurried to the jetty and the house where the commercial was shot.

The ambience of the lake and jetty is soothing and it looks just like it did ten years ago.Time seems to bypassed this place.The lake is surrounded by mountains and jungles that are protected by the authority.Lake Cenderoh is a natural lake and it was the first dam in Perak.

Roslan showed us the fishes that they caught earlier.He said this fish can only be found in Perak and the Amazon. In Malay it is called 'ikan Raja' and in english it is called 'Peacock Bass'.A huge fish indeed.

There were only a few houses by the lake and most are traditional style.There are coconut trees by the lake and vegetables that they plant for them to consume.They are healthy folks because the place is not polluted and they are kind and generous. Life is good for them and may the Almighty bless them with the best.

The Sea

As much as I love nature,I am not into walking under the hot sun by the sea.I am more into hills and jungles.

So I was invited to stay at the Swiss Garden Damai Laut Beach Resort.A good friend invited me to stay the night there and see another hidden gem in Perak.
I hear from people that the place is not in good shape,there are flies all over etc.I am not surprised if there were flies because dinding which surrounds the resort is full of poultry farms.

We reached Damai Laut around noon after a 2 hours of leisurely drive from Ipoh.The route to the resort from the signboard  is quite far but I love enchanting  sceneries so I do not mind the distance.Mangrove trees with monkeys running towards the car,I was thrilled.

We were met at the lobby which was full of people and not flies!The smell of lemongrass was soothing and we were served a welcome drink of lemongrass tea.Patrick the new General Manager showed us to our room which was on the 5th floor facing the sea.For once I noticed that the hotel had put two prayer mats for us.Knowing that we are Muslims of course.We then  had lunch at the coffee house,a beautiful place made of glass from top to bottom with water flowing on the glass roof to the ground.I actually love 

water features so this place was truly inviting.The food was well presented and tasty.No flies so I asked Patrick where are the flies?He said that he has ordered the staff to treat the hotel with certain sophisticated fly traps and lemongrass scented candles.So far so good.

We were taken by a tramp around the 400acres which includes the beautiful golf course.

We were also taken on a boat ride around the pangkor island and we saw a few secluded islands like the monkey island and pulau Giam.The sea in those area are crystal clear and we could see the fishes when we looked down.

I tried the ATV after the boat ride and it was pure fun.It's nice to forget our age sometimes.

Dinner was at their thai restaurant which overlook the sea and the sun set.Beautiful!
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I had a good sleep in their well maintained room and the next morning we went on their jungle walk.I was in my element for I love nature and the hill trek was fun.There is a tree house in the jungle and it was my first adventure climbing a tree house.

After all the fun and adventure at Damai Laut,I left the place with a promise in my heart that I will return.With their medium cost hotel rate,Swiss Garden Damai Laut is a place to go for those who loves adventure and golf.