Monday, March 27, 2017

Cruise the Royal Belum with Style.

Get on board the Casuarina@Temenggor 1 Houseboat and cruise into the wilderness of the Royal Belum Rainforest with style.'Uncle Sam' have the Alaskan forest, the Amazon is said to be the largest forest in the world but we have our own Royal Belum State Park to be proud of.The largest in Malaysia and is said to be older than the Amazons.
The Casuarina 1 houseboat,together with Casuarina@Meru and Casuarina Cempaka Sari are under the wings of the government body PKNP.The houseboat has been in operation  for three years.Besides the boathouse that belongs to the Royal Belum  Resort,Casuarina 1 is another one belonging to a hotel.Among many other boathouses at Temenggor ,it is the only one equipped with two speedboats and two floating boats incase of emergency.There are  ten twin bedded cabins made comfortable with  airconditioning.The first  two bottom decks are cabins  and each deck has four clean restrooms.The lowest deck are the galley where food are prepared and saloon where guests can karaoke  plus the cabins.The 2nd deck are cabins  and the cockpit. The third deck is where meals are served and guest can relax and enjoy the view of the lake which is embraced by the oldest rainforest in the world. 
The Temenggor lake is a man made lake that used to be a valley which is part of the old rainforest. It was said that the valley was flooded by using the many rivers there and the Perak river being the main one in the early 70s to combat the communist in that forest.The main island  here is Pulau Banding. Royal Belum State Park is a huge park in the northern parts of Peninsular Malaysia.It is part of the even bigger Belum-Temengor Forest Complex encompassing 117,500 hectares of jungle.It was declared as the Royal Belum State Park by His Royal Highness Sultan Azlan Shah on July 31,2003. Together with Taman Negara National Park it is one of the oldest rainforest in the world, dating back to 130 million years ago.Eco tourism is promoted here albeit in a controlled manner.

The crew from the TV stations of RTM 1,TV3 and the media including myself were guest of the houseboat for two nights and three days.It was the first time in a boathouse for all of us and it was also the best media trip for us and an unforgettable one.After embarking the boat, we were given a 'prep talk' by the professional guide who we fondly called Joe.Johari Zulkifli,35 has been a guide for the Casuarina 1 for two years. He made sure that none of us had any chronic illnesses and  he also advised us on the rules of the jungle. To go into the Royal Belum Rainforest, we need permits which in our case was prepared by the Casuarina Meru.
The cruise inside the State Park and the virgin forest of Royal Belum  took about five hours from the jetty which was an adventure of a lifetime for all us.Beautiful would be an undestatement.The lake which is three times the size of Singapore is mysteriously gorgeous. There are many islands dotted on the lake and all are pristine rainforest which looks like a watercolour painting of red,orange,blue and green.The idyllic scene took my breath away.Mothernature is kind to give us this legacy and who are we to destroy them.The State government did the right thing by preserving this forest.Perak is set to be the main player in eco tourism by showcasing Royal Belum to the world. 

The Chef served us their signature cucur  udang for tea and then we were introduced to our first activity which is called 'water confidence activity'.We experienced bamboo rafting  and swimming in the lake.Unleashing the child in us,with our life jacket on we paddled our rafts and jumped inside the lake.It was surreal,  floating in the lake  which is lukewarm and not cold.


Come nightime, it was eerily quiet and the houseboat was parked at the Sungei Kooi area.The lake made no sounds and there was no coverage so we could not get the wifi like we used to.So instead we enjoyed each other's company and the next day after a sumptuous breakfast prepared by the Casuarina chef, we were taken by speedboat to the jungle of Sungei Kooi to see the waterfall. 

It was our first jungle trek and it  took about half an hour to reach the waterfall.There were restrictions here and a ranger followed us to make sure that we did not litter the jungle.The trees were like skyscrapers and huge while the rocks were old and mouldy.Be prepared to fight with leeches for we were attacked by leeches. The jungle is not for the faint hearted ones because of these leeches and unusual insects.It was not an easy climb but we managed by holding on to roots and ropes.
Then we were greeted by a 'shower waterfall' from 50 metres high above.It does not cascades like other waterfalls and to think that we were looking at the rock that is more than a million years old with waterfall  was unbelievable. The huge roots of the trees were our seats and there were rare plants and rare insects.This part of Royal Belum is home of various birds and animals.
There are many species of hornbills in this forest and other kind of birds too.It is the animal kingdom here at Royal Belum and so there are 'Salt Licks' for the animals to get their minerals.Joe called it Hospital binatang and we did get to see it but there were no animals in sight.The salt Licks that we went to was at Sungei Papan. On our second night,the boat parked at an area called Simpang Empat.
To think that mankind intruded the animal's habitat by going to their Salt Licks made me feel uneasy.This is their Kingdom and we have ours so it's only  fair to give the animals some respect and privacy so to speak .Men should not poach these animals out of greed.The same with the Jahai tribe in the middle of the lake.We should just let them be. Our help towards them should be in the form of medication and education. 

So we visited the Jahai tribe at Kg.Aman Damai and that is part of the package activity.Are they being commercialised? It depends on how you want to see it.In a way,yes they are because we are so curious about them that their little village has become a tourist destination.
Then we were taken by speedboat to another waterfall called Ruok waterfall.It is also a fish sanctuary and this time it is not a long trek but the trail is rather slippery because of the stones.The fishes were swimming all over the stream and and ready to be fed.Such a beautiful sight to see fishes near a waterfall and some of them would bite our feet.We  often see fishes being fed in a pond but at a stream with a waterfall is out of this world.It is really a great experience and we spent about an hour there.






That was the last activity.We were then served lunch the Casuarina way and after resting in our aircond cabin for an hour,we reached the jetty.We left the Casuarina Temenggor 1 with hope that we shall see it again.The only way to be part of nature is to stay in a boathouse so that we get to be one with our surrounding. For those who want to be in the wilderness yet comfortable, the Casuarina 1 is the best for accommodation and transportation all in one.

Tuesday, March 14, 2017

History of Perak.(how Bukit Chandan got its name

History without a pinch of magic,folklore and fable would be dull especially to the young ones.The same goes with this story of ancient Perak.

Now why is the state called Perak?One of the interesting story was before the existence of the Perak Sultanate there was only the Melaka Sultanate.Perak was divided into three districts that is Bruas,Manjung and Janin,better known as Hulu Perak and was under the rule of Tun Saban.Manjung and Bruas was under Melaka.At that time the Penghulu of Manjung was Tok Mahsuka.Somehow the three heads decided to merge and form a State.Their discussions brought them to the conclusion that since it was Tun Perak that made Melaka well known they will name the new State as Perak.

Tok Mahsuka was not satisfied and wanted a ruler of Royal descendants for Perak.

On another story of Hikayat Merang Mahawangsa,Perak has its link to Raja Mahapudi Sat.Apparently he came across a river with a few islands.So he felt that this was an ideal place to build into a state.Therefore he used his bow and arrow.The bow was called 'Indera Sakti' and the arrow made of perak.He shot towards the sky and it landed on one of the island.He called the island Indera Sakti and the State Perak.

Before it all began,Perak was under the rule of Gangga Negara that is now under the district of Dinding,Beruas and Manjung.
The real history of Perak however became clearer and without a doubt after Melaka fell to the Portugis in 1511 and Sultan Mahmud ran away to Kampar,Sumatra and he became the Sultan of Kampar.

Perak which earlier wanted a ruler of pure royalty sent Tun Samban and Nakhoda Kassim to meet Sultan Mahmud.Tun Saban requested Sultan Mahmud to allow one of his sons to become the Sultan of Perak upon which the Sultan agreed.

Here is where magic and reality collides.Sultan Mahmud sent all the royal regalia plus the 'nobat' first to Perak.Three years later Raja Muzaffar sailed to Perak.According to history Raja Muzaffar's ship was stranded upon approaching the estuary.He recited his well known mantra and lo and behold a genie appeared.The genie said 'Tuanku,if you want to rule Perak you have to throw your crown into the sea.' Raja Muzaffar threw and his only important regalia that he had with him was the sword chura si manja kini.
The ship sailed to Tanah Abang and it was here that he was installed as the first Sultan of Perak in 1528 and it was during this time that Islam planted its roots in Perak.
During those days all palaces were no concrete palace and most palaces were built of wood and situated by the river bank.
In 1877,Raja Idris became the Sultan he built one on top of a hill because Sayong was often hit by floods.He named the hill Bukit Chandan.
The story behind this name is about his elephant called kulup chandan.One day the elephant ran away and Raja Idris who was only the Raja Muda at that time followed the elephants trail together with his men.They reached Gunung Bubu.It was here that he met an old bearded man clad in white jubah.The old man approached him and said "You will be the next Sultan and when you become one,do not reside in Sayong but built your palace across the river on a hill and you have to release the elephant 7 days after your installation."

That was how bukit chandan got its name and why present rulers reside here.At that time it was called Istana Negara and proudly this was where the first ruler's conference was held.
Istana Iskandariah was built by the son of Sultan Idris the 1st,Sultan Alang Iskandar.Sadly he did not get to live there because he passed away before it was completed.





Saturday, March 11, 2017

The palace that was forgotten.

We often wonder what secrets or stories lies behind old buildings. Especially old palaces that seems enchanting.One such palace is Istana Kenangan in Kuala Kangsar.
I remember  visiting my late grandmother who resided there.That was when I was a teenager so let me take you on a journey back in time

Initially it was called Istana Lembah because it stands beautifully on a valley in Bukit Chandan. It was meant to be a temporary home for my grandparent Sultan Iskandar Shah ibni Almarhum Sultan Idris 1 and  Raja Perempuan Kelsom.They stayed there from 1931 to 1934.Istana Iskandariah was still 'work in progress ' at that time.

It was Tunku Abdul Rahman who changed the name of Istana Lembah to Istana Kenangan during the 60s.Somehow the name deem fit for the family of Sultan Iskandar  For it holds memories to be remembered and cherished by the existing members of the family.

To know more about Istana Kenangan besides what you get from Wikipedia we must first get to know Raja Perempuan Kelsom also. When Sultan Iskandar passed away in 1934,Raja Kelsom moved to her own home which was fondly called Istana Ladang.During those days the abode of prominent royalties are called Istana by the village folks regardless of the size and architecture.They tend to put royalties on a pedestal.

Many may not know of her except for the fact that the secondary school in Kuala Kangsar was named after her.

Bah (grandma)was an avid gardener and she even tried her hands in planting  padi besides growing flowers.She grew the padi at the plot of land near her house hence the name 'Istana Ladang' by the villagers and the Bukit Chandan folks.

Raja Perempuan Kelsom was a versatile lady.She rides horses with the 'orang puteh' and she can blend in with women from the village.An artistic lady, she was a champion in cooking and sewing as well as drawing.She even did the 'tekad' which was uncommon at that time.

As for Istana Kenangan which belongs to the State, it was home for students  during the war in 1941.It was given a facelift by Tunku Abdul Rahman in the 60s who then changed the name.

When Raja Idris became the Sultan of Perak,  my grandmother Raja Kelsom moved to Istana Kenangan while a cozy bungalow was being built at the spot where Istana Ladang was.Raja Kelsom lived in Istana Kenangan with her big family till her last breath.
The architecture of istana kenangan is unique. It is shaped like a 'keris' if seen from the top. Made of wood and tepas ,it does not have nails.The person that built it was a man from Bukit Mertajam called Suffian.There is a small Balai Rong Seri as you go up the stairs. Behind is where the family had their meals and relaxation.There are three huge bedrooms with a picturesque view through the windows.

Bah (grandma) is full of empathy and sympathy towards the village folks of Kampung Changkat. Everyday she prepared meals for the less fortunate and they would flock to the palace.
The palace was lively and sometime they would have movies under the stars for the villagers. It was a treat for the villagers to be able to watch movies in the palace ground.

Raja Kelsom loved people and they love her too.She passed away in 1972 at Istana Kenangan and her daughter Raja Intan Soraya then stayed there for a while.
Siblings of Raja Intan including my mother died young and that was where their bodies were taken for people to pay their last respect.Istana Kenangan had witnessed many episodes of happiness and sadness as well as grieving families.

All good things must come to an end so they said. Istana Kenangan shared the same fate.Raja Intan later moved to the new house at the spot where Istana Ladang was and Istana Kenangan was abandoned when Sultan Idris passed away

Fast forward to the 80s, Istana Kenangan which belongs to the government was turned into a museum.Unfortunately the so called museum is not ready for public viewing.Many visitors are frustrated especially history buff.Now all that remains are memories.

Ends

Tuesday, March 7, 2017

Iskandar

This is a story about a mother's sacrifice and about perseverance.Regardless of race or background, a mother's love has no boundaries.A mother that did not give up hope on her son who was born with a hearing impaired.
Raja Puan Mahkota,Raja Nazhatul Shima Sultan Idris Shah have six sons and the youngest son Syed Iskandar Syed Omar Al Sagoff brought out the best in her.

KU PUAN DOTTIE 

"When he was a baby he slept through the night and seldom cry.He was a good baby." said Raja Nazhatul Shima or fondly known as KuDottie.


"When he turned two,he never uttered a word and I was worried but still felt that he was fine because each time I sang  songs like 'twinkle little star' with my hand gesture,he laughed.So I assumed he heard me but actually it was my hand gesture that made him laugh."
One day while he was playing with his cousin,I shouted at them for messing up the room.There was no respond from my son,he was unaffected but my nephew cried because of the shout.
That was when KuDottie realized that his son had a hearing problem.
"I took him to a paeditrician in Ipoh and the doctor said that Iskandar was a slow learner.I was not satisfied and wanted a second opinion so I took him to Singapore and the doctor diagnosed my son as profound deaf or hearing impaired . My world collapsed upon learning that Iskandar was born with 'hearing impaired' and I was advised to take him to a speech therapist. I took him to see a speech therapist,Mrs Ragbir in Kuala Lumpur to see if he could utter a sound."

"The therapist used a method that is hard for me to explain and the first word that she taught him was the word 'Ma'. I was so happy to hear him said Ma that i cried tears of joy."
So the next thing KuDottie did was  took him to Hong Kong for another check up.She was dismayed because the doctor gave the same diagnosis.

Then Ragbir the speech therapist suggested to KuDottie about the 'cochlear implant in Sydney,Australia.At that time it was new and not many have heard about this.By then Iskandar was five years old.
A cochlear implant is  a  medical device that replaces the function of the damaged inner ear.It does the work of damaged parts of the inner ear known as cochlea  to provide sound signals to the brain.
We found Proffesor Gibson in Sydney and he did the operation on Iskandar.We went there in 1995 till 1997 and the operation took four hours.

ISKANDAR

"I was shocked when I first heard  sounds after the operation that I cried from fear."said Syed Iskandar Syed Omar, 28.
As for KuDottie, she admitted that upon seeing Iskandar responded with the cry after the operation, she was so happy that no words could described her feelings.She knew than that the operation was successful.Iskandar was the second patient to undergo the operation at that point in time.The first was the son of Farah Khan.
We had to go for speech therapy in Sydney after the operation and we had to learn from Professor Gibson. At the same time Iskandar went to Cranbrook school a normal school for normal children.The beauty about the school is that they never treat him like a handicap.
"Iskandar is strong willed and competitive.He was so good in chess since young and in Tenby at the age of 11 he was the best chess player " said KuDottie.

"My mum and I stayed in Sydney for three years so I could learned how to speak.I never learn sign language but only lip reading.I went for speech therapy under a wonderful teacher,Rosalyn from Canada and became attached to her."said Iskandar
Lip reading is a technique of understanding speech by visually  interpreting the movements of the lips,face and tongue when normal sound is not available. Lip reading is not easy and ostensibly used by those with hearing impaired.
"Naturally English became my first language.I went to a prep  school in Sydney for two years and then continued my studies at Tenby International School in Ipoh."he said
After acquiring his O level at the age of 15,Iskandar went to HELP University for his twinning degree at 16.After two years in HELP,he went to Hawaii Pacific University  to complete his degree.
"I pursued Bachelor of Science in Business Management majoring in finance and in Mathematic. I earned my Honour degree with a GPA of 3.78 at the age of 19.I came home for a while before I decided that a degree is not enough for me and I have to do my Masters.
So I did my Masters at the age of 20 in Australia.At UNSW to be precised which was very tough but I got my masters in Financial Analysis.That was a challenging year for me."
Upon returning to Ipoh, Iskandar who was the first in his family to earned a Masters began teaching.He was a lecturer at Quest International University  for four years.The good looking lecturer had students going gaga over him which is not surprising.
" I taught  Finance and Statistic. I love figures and I memorised formulas.For me education should be free" said the good looking lad."So during my free time I give tuition in mathematics for free.I joined Mercy and helped the flood victims in Pahang during the big flood recently.

Iskandar quit his job in order to help his mother with finance for their family business.Somehow his passion for for teaching won him over so he started teaching again at Sunway College Ipoh.He is currently teaching Finance,the subject that he loves.
"I am thinking of doing a PhD soon.That will take four years."he said adding that his mother is behind his success and he is proud of his mother just as much as his mother is proud of him.
"I wish to share my son's success with others so that those out there with a child that is born with hearing impaired will not give up  and for those young ones to pursue their dream.If Iskandar can do it,I believe they can do it too."said KuDottie.

Ends